The Northern Renaissance, C. 1500 - 1600 (2024)

The term "aiguillette" refers to an ornamental braided cord with decorative metal tips worn on uniforms or costumes. According to several traditions, its origin traces back to the pins used to secure a shoulder protector called a pauldron on the cuirass of knights or cuirassiers. In modern usage, aiguillettes are worn as symbols of honor on uniforms or academic dress. They serve both decorative and symbolic purposes, adding prestige to the attire.

A bases was a knee-length, pleated skirt worn by men. The bases were often worn with a jacket. This was worn by civilians and also by the military. The military wore the bases over their armor. Eventually, metal versions of the bases were made for the military in order to provide more protection for the soldiers. It is thought that it is called the bases because it is worn at the ‘base’ of the jacket. ​

Bobbin lace is a type of hand-woven lace made by braiding dozens of fine cotton or linen threads held on little spindle-like bobbins. The device shown below is a pillow and roll. The bobbins lay on the pillow and the lace is woven on the roll. Pins are stuck through the roll to achieve spacing. Bobbin lace was very time-consuming to create, and thus a symbol of status and wealth. It was used to edge various garments until the Industrial Revolution when cheaper methods of lace-making were invented. Hobbyists and reenactors still make it to this day!

Bombast was wool or cotton padding used to make clothing look extra puffy and fancy. Both men and women used it in their clothing to puff it out. Bombast could weigh several pounds and make it harder to move in one’s clothing. Could commonly be found in breeches and doublets in the 16th century. This is where the word “bombastic” comes from, as it is used to describe someone or something that is heavily exaggerated.

The bum roll was made in a full circle that moved the farthingale dress away from the body and softened the structure lines of the dress. It was also made in a half roll that padded above the bum to also change the silhouette. The bum roll made the waist appear smaller and accentuated the bum. They were made in linen, cotton or strong calico and stuffed with cotton or wool. The may have also contained wire to hold the structure.

The Chopine was a pair of shoes that developed in the early 16th century and were very popular. they were high platform shoes that had both a practical and a symbolic function at first. Having the thick sole raised above the ground kept the wearer from having issues with irregular paths if it was Wet or muddy it kept the foot clean. it also showed off the wearer's status depending on the height. This is where now we turn to the not so functional anymore. due to how high some of them started to get women had to walk with an attendant whom they would use to balance. The tallest pair that they know of is 20 inches high.

The conch also known as conque was a veil worn like a cape from the shoulders to the floor. It was made of a sheer fabric and in some portraits is very difficult to see. The conch would have been attached to the high collar worn by many during this time. It is possible is has some relation to being a widow however this was regional and may only be true in France. In England, the conch was more of an accessory than a symbolic piece of clothing associated with being a widow.

Duckbill shoes (nicknamed oxmaw) were worn by men and women for a short time in the early 16th century. They were often slashed and puffed, fittingly. The trend started supposedly with King Henry VIII who had extremely wide shoes for his extra toe he was born with. They got wider and wider over time. They were even stuffed and given horns sometimes. It got to a point where they gave them so much of a waddling gait when they walked that they eventually abandoned the style altogether.

The Ferroniere is a jewelry item that women would wear on their foreheads. They were worn so women’s hairstyles would stay in place. The ferronieres are delicate and thin and they have a small pendant jewel that sits on the middle of the forehead. Ferronier’s were made with either metal, textile thread, or jewels. They were more popular with women in France rather than women in England. Women wearing Ferroniere’s were popular in paintings, for example, the very popular, La Belle Ferroniere, which was painted by Leonard Di Vinci in Milan, Italy from 1490-1499.

The French Farthingale, despite its name, started in Spain and spread throughout Europe. Many different countries made their own take on the Spanish Farthingale like Italy and France. This hoop-like structure would make the torso look thinner and the skirt look bigger. Usually worn with a bum roll, the French variation angled slightly up in the back to give a rigid and voluminous silhouette. I’d imagine that it was like wearing a hula hoop around your waist, with the lightweight material that was often used. ​

By looking at many articles of clothing from this period, we can see that lace was pretty common, and making it was very popular. Lace was worn by both men and women of the Northern Renaissance. There were two common forms of lace during the time of the Northern Renaissance, needlepoint lace, and bobbin lace. The style of needlepoint lace is where appliques of thread are connected by other small bits of thread to make a textile. Bobbin lace was made by manipulating the thread to make a pattern using a bobbin, and not a regular needle, hence the name. ​

The Medici collar was a wire-supported or starched lace accessory attached to low-neckline gowns. They were sometimes so tall that they extended past the wearer’s head. They were extremely popular among the upper classes all across Europe, first introduced in France by Marie de’Medici in the 16th century. They gave the wearer a striking silhouette and were much more lightweight than ruffs. The Medici collar was a favorite accessory of Queen Elizabeth I.

Needlepoint said to have come from Italy, is a style of lace where appliqués of thread were connected by small bits of thread to create a textile. Needlepoint lace and bobbin lace were the two most common forms of lace during the Northern Renaissance. Needle (point) lace requires the use of a single thread and a needle to make stitches one after another which gradually build up a fabric. Needlepoint lace, characterized by its delicate patterns and fine threadwork, became a symbol of prestige and refinement among the aristocracy and nobility. Skilled artisans meticulously crafted these laceworks by hand, using a needle and thread to create elaborate designs inspired by nature, mythology, and religious motifs. The popularity of needlepoint lace soared, adorning the clothing, accessories, and furnishings of the elite. Its exquisite beauty and painstaking detail exemplified the values of sophistication and luxury synonymous with the Renaissance period, leaving an enduring legacy of elegance and artistry.

A stomacher was a narrow, triangular piece of fabric, usually adorned with beads, bows, or embroidery. Men and women both used stomachers to add to their clothing. A stomacher was usually removable and would be placed beneath the laces on a gown. The reason for it being long and triangular was that people liked the look of a long torso, so they mimicked their ideals onto clothing. It added to the structure and added decoration to the clothing